By Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey, CNN
(CNN) — Samarkand. It’s a name that rolls off the tongue, conjuring up images of adventure, exploration and far-off mysteries.
Founded around 700 BCE, it is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, a crossroads of cultures and a hub of learning and trade – particularly at the height of the ancient Route of the Silk, which crossed the city.
Much has been written about this jewel of southeastern Uzbekistan, but a poem by the British novelist and poet James Elroy Flecker (1884-1915) perhaps sums it up best: “For a thirst to know what should not be known, we take the Golden Road to Samarkand. .”
With its varied sites, including superb mosques, mausoleums and madrassas, it is certainly the jewel of the triptych of historic cities of Uzbekistan, often mentioned in the same way as Khiva and Bukhara, two other key stages of the Silk Road famous for their medieval architecture.
Here is a brief overview of what Samarkand has to offer. If you can, plan at least three days to make the most of your visit.
Historical highlights
The first stop on any Samarkand itinerary should be Registan Square, probably the most photographed place in all of Uzbekistan.
The three madrassas of the square – named Madrasa Oulougbek, Madrasa Sher Dor and Madrasa Tilla-Kari – were built between the 15th and 17th centuries. These Islamic schools perfectly encapsulate what the ancient Silk Road was like, with its centers of learning and trade.
While Registan Square is perhaps the most famous site in Samarkand, Shah-i-Zinda is undoubtedly the most impressive. This necropolis has a collection of mausoleums presented in a multitude of turquoise tiles, domes and incredible interiors, all dating from the 14th century.
And then there are the many sites linked to Temur, a famous 14th century ruler whose name is omnipresent in Uzbekistan.
Among the most famous is his final resting place, the Gur-e-Amir of Samarkand – or mausoleum of Amir Temur – a celebration of his life in gold and turquoise. It was completed in 1404 and Timur was buried there after his death in 1405.
Meanwhile, legend has it that the Bibi Khanum Mosque in Samarkand was commissioned by Timur’s favorite wife in honor of his return to the country after a long plundering journey. Today, it remains one of the largest mosques in Central Asia and can accommodate around 10,000 worshipers at a time.
And then there is Timur’s grandson, Ulug Bheg. He was a sultan, but also a scientist passionate about mathematics and astronomy. His work is remembered at the historic Ulug Bheg Observatory, built in the 1420s on a hill overlooking Samarkand. Today, it presents historical measurements of the sun’s path over a year, only one minute behind today’s measurements.
To the northeast of the city is the mausoleum of Saint Daniel, prophet of the Old Testament. The exact location of his remains is a matter of debate, with many countries claiming to possess them. According to local legend, the mausoleum of Saint Daniel of Samarkand contains a collection of the prophet’s relics which continues to grow over time, requiring them to repeatedly extend the sarcophagus to its current length – 18 meters (59 feet) .
What to eat
Uzbek cuisine is as varied as the country’s landscape and Samarkand is no exception.
The national dish is plov – essentially pilaf or pilau. This rice dish can be made with a wide variety of ingredients, including carrots, beef, raisins and onions. Every family, in every region, has its own plov recipe, and you just have to keep trying it to find the one that suits you best.
Accompanying most meals is oh no, a style of bread freshly baked in a clay oven, then stamped and decorated with a sharp tool that can be picked up at any souvenir stall.
If you’re looking for healthy options, don’t miss out achichuk – tomato salad with onions and a hint of chili pepper – or opt for mantis, which are dumplings filled with pumpkin or spinach.
There is also samsa – samosas with various fillings, but mainly meat-based – while the omnipresent shashlik are skewers of different types of meat. If you want noodles, lagman is another common dish worth tasting.
As for local specialties that might not please everyone, there are Kurt. You will see these small, hard, white balls placed on snack dishes and in markets. These are dried cheese snacks, made from sour and fermented milk from local animals. Legend has it that they were popular with travelers during the Silk Road era.
Where to eat it
One of the best restaurants in the city serving traditional Uzbek cuisine is Plane tree. Offering large portions, wine and lovely decor, this is the perfect place for a memorable dinner in Samarkand.
For a cheap and fun place to fuel up while sightseeing, head to Siab Bazaar. Here, travelers will find many classic Uzbek dishes, including non-hot obi, samsa, shashlik and kurt. Everything is cheap, everything fresh.
No visit to Uzbekistan would be complete without enjoying its ancient tea tradition. Pots are shared on every occasion and in between. While the younger generation is embracing the takeaway coffee trend, older locals still enjoy a cup of tea with their food.
The traditional of Uzbekistan chaykhanas, or tea houses, are becoming rarer, but the Bibikhanum tea room offers an authentic experience.
Where to stay
Samarkand has been welcoming international visitors for millennia and offers a wide range of accommodation.
Some international chains are represented, such as Hilton and Regency, but they tend to be located in the new part of town, away from the historic sites. Your best bet is to opt for a boutique hotel near Registan Square, placing most of the major sights within walking distance.
THE Bibikhanum Hotel is a short walk from Bibi Khanum Mosque and Siab Bazaar. It showcases the traditional craftsmanship and architectural style of the region; the rooms are basic but with all amenities.
In the meantime, Kosh Havuz is a modern boutique hotel, located within walking distance of Bibi Khanum, Registan Palace and Shah-i-Zinda, and offers spacious rooms, even more spacious bathrooms and a rooftop restaurant.
And finally, The Argamaka cozy hotel with a small courtyard garden, is a short walk from the mausoleum of Amir Temur.
Move
If you’re staying in the old part of town, walking is the best option, as there are many small alleys to explore and maneuver around.
For longer distances, such as the train station, airport or tourist sites such as the Ulug Bheg Observatory, taxis are cheap and easy to hail. Bargain before getting in, as many taxis do not have meters, although fares tend to be fair and cheap. Just make sure you have cash in the local currency.
For longer day trips, like to Shakhrisabz, hiring a private driver and guide is your best option.
Get there
Uzbekistan’s largest international airport is in the capital, Tashkent. From there you can either take a connecting flight with Airlines of Uzbekistan to Samarkand or board a train.
With the rail connection, there are several options for variable speeds. The fastest is the Afrosiyob Express, which gets travelers to Samarkand in about two hours, a bit slower than flying.
Train seats can be booked onlinebut stock up quickly, so book early.
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