What is the skin barrier?
If you think of your skin as a club, the barrier is its bounce.
“The skin barrier is our outermost layer of skin, our epidermis or stratum corneum,” explains Elisabeth Nehme, esthetician, skincare educator and trainer and global brand ambassador for Comfort zone. “It’s made up of hydrating elements and lipids, or oils, designed to keep the good stuff in (think hydration, hydration, and nutrients) and the bad stuff out (pollution, makeup, sun damage).”
What does it mean to have a weakened skin barrier?
A compromised skin barrier can be the sneaky culprit of many different skin problems. In other words, this could be the root cause to target if you are experiencing various skin problems. Think: “dehydration, irritation and sensitization, and even premature wrinkles,” says Nehme, as well as acne, breakouts, and redness.
This is an especially important topic when we’re facing extreme weather changes (read: right now). “Since the environment – as well as your physiological health – can affect the barrier, changes in the weather or emotional stress can lead to rough, dry, sensitized or acne-prone skin,” says Christine Lee, esthetician and international skincare educator. has Comfort zone. “Sometimes we damage the barrier with the products we put on our skin, if (a product is) too harsh or active.”
What causes a compromised skin barrier?
In short… a very much. If you live in a city, face changing weather, shower at the wrong temperature, or simply live as you age, your skin barrier may be compromised. Cool!
Dr. Stéphanie Souléholds a doctorate in life and health sciences and is responsible for scientific communication at Paris typology, states that various external and internal factors can disrupt this outer layer, which can again lead to dry, flaky skin, itching and redness. As if that wasn’t enough, a compromised barrier also makes it easier for dirt and environmental impurities to penetrate your skin, causing breakouts.
“These factors include prolonged exposure to low humidity, cold, physical friction, exposure to irritants or allergens, cigarette smoke, use of alkaline products, overexposure to sunlight, exposure to hot water in hot showers, saunas, etc. excessive or vigorous cleansing, excessive exfoliation, excessive alcohol consumption, certain medications like steroids, pollution particles, aging, genetically dry skin, psychological stress, and skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and xerosis.
Because it is quite easy to compromise a skin barrier (see above), many people suffer the consequences. This is why it is so important to keep your barrier healthy!
How to repair your skin barrier?
Good news: you are not fined in the event of damage. There are certain skin care ingredients to look for to treat acute damage. But in general? It’s more of a 360° approach. Nehme says the best way to keep your barrier strong and healthy — aside from “amazing skin care products” — is to adopt a healthy lifestyle.
“Managing stress, sleeping well, and eating a balanced diet rich in antioxidants” are essential, says Nehme.
As for topical treatment, it is imperative to favor a gentle routine, in other words “restore and nourish the skin day and night with active products without being aggressive,” specifies Nehme.
Remember, in this case, less is more. You don’t need a 27-step diet. “Using fewer products in general with a focus on hydration and a light diet can be a good way to restore balance to your skin,” says Lee.
How to choose products that respect the skin barrier
In terms of what “active, not aggressive” means, experts have described the following routine:
1. Clean gently
“Start with a gentler cleanser, one that doesn’t lather excessively, which can dry out and weaken the skin,” says Lee. Creamy or milky formulas are your best bet here, as gels and mousses tend to strip the skin (another thing that can, you guessed it, compromise your skin barrier).
2. Gently exfoliate
“Gentle” is the key word here, as over-exfoliation can further damage your skin barrier. Exfoliation removes dead skin cells and stimulates fresh, new skin. It should be done once or twice a week (maximum!) using enzymes or gentle chemical exfoliants like lactic and azelaic acids.
3. Restock
“Hydrate and hydrate with nourishing creams that quench the skin and protect this barrier from daily stressors,” says Lee.
Dr Soulé shares these sentiments. “To repair the compromised skin barrier and soothe irritation, you can use skin care products with hydrating and restorative formulations,” she explains. She suggests choosing a product with humectants, “like hyaluronic acid, panthenol, glycerin, sodium PCA, and polyglutamic acid, which attract and retain water in the skin barrier.”
Additionally, certain ingredients “help restore and strengthen the structural integrity of the skin barrier,” says Dr. Soulé, including “ceramides, free fatty acids, natural moisturizing factors, squalane, and cholesterol.” You can also try “occlusive moisturizers, (such as) vegetable oils, vegetable waxes, vegetable butters, which create a thin film on the skin, limiting moisture loss.”
You should also stay away from anything abrasive. “It’s important to avoid skin care products that contain large amounts of denatured alcohol, as they can irritate the skin,” says Dr. Soulé. “Similarly, avoid alkaline products which can alter the skin’s pH and disrupt the protective barrier. While certain cosmetic ingredients are beneficial for the skin, others, such as fruit acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, etc.) and retinol, can potentially damage the skin barrier. If you’re considering using products containing these ingredients, Dr. Soulé simply advises being careful: “Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and limit their use to minimize their impact on the skin.” » Finally, avoid fragrances that are too strong, as Lee says they can agitate an already aggravated skin barrier.
